In front of the computer

When I was sitting infront of the computer posting all my blogs, Ben (baby) Wingfield came by and stole my orange glasses and was happily eating it. Mama Mariam (in the back) and I teased him about how glasses are not "really food", but he just gnawed away. Ben is one of the dearest babies and is a bit over 6 months old now. He has the happiest smiles that is contagious to all who sees him. Of course, when he cries over something, he is quite invincible. As the child of our country reps, Andrew and Miriam Wingfield, he is our "EI Tanzania baby". He is quite popular with the girls and definitely a good PR personel. He is a must at all social gatherings.
We love you, Ben!

Stories

Everyone has a story to tell. As I collected these stories, I found that these stories, of life in the village are somewhat consistent. What happened in this family is likely to have happened in the family next door. Deaths and sicknesses are as much part of daily life, intertwined with laughter and tears. That’s just life!

Renja

Renja is one of the children who come to my house everyday to sing. She is a sweet 5 year-old girl with a beautiful round face and clear round eyes. She has a pretty smile. I have gotten to know her everyday when she comes to play outside my house. Her house is about a 3 minutes walk from mine. Sometimes we’d sit together and talk. She would tell me that she has no mother and she needs clean water. Sometimes she would draw children in the sand and show me her clay statuettes that she has made with the muddy soil. You could see that despite her young age, she is a leader. The children, small and older ones listened to her leading. They would devise plans to get us out of our house when we had told them that we are currently working on lesson plans so we could not play. They would never give up to call our names, “Jeni! Jeni!” and “Sacha! Sacha!”. Then, they would sing really loudly. They know I could not resist children singing outside my house without joining them.

One day, Sacha and I visited Renja’s grandmother. Her grandmother was a beautiful old woman, but signs of age are evident on her face. I found that it was not only age that made her old, but it was her experiences in life. Her son is Renja’s father, a young man not over his thirties. His first wife, Renja’s mom had died when Renja was still a baby. Later, he remarried and Renja had a second mother. The wife, later developed anemia, but gave birth to a premature baby. Two weeks after giving birth, the young mother passed away last November (refer to blog: A Story for Life and Death). Renja and her little sibling were left motherless. When her father was away from home, working on the rice fields, Renja is entrusted to her grandmother’s care. As men are not accustomed to raise their own children without a wife, Renja spends most of her time with her grandmother. The tiny baby was also left to grandma’s keeping. However, she does not have the ability to raise both children. She described to me of her trip to the nearby orphanage by foot to give away the child. There was no hint of sadness as she spoke. Maybe she has parted with the child and left the emotions behind or maybe she felt no attachment to the baby in the first place. Either way, she has left a burden behind. As for Renja, grandma would ask if we wanted to take her to Canada and raise her. Villagers consider us, white people as being really rich (and we do have more in comparison). We have been asked by many villagers to adopt their children. They believe they will have a better life.

Mama Uzuni

Uzuni is one of Renja’s relative. She is studying in grade 1 at the primary school and she also is one of the regulars that come to play at our house. Her name, Uzuni, means “grief” but contrary to her name, Uzuni is a playful girl and very good at crafts. She would make earrings and little drums out of the tall grasses that are now growing. The children know that I have been growing a garden. So, one day as Mama Uzuni (Uzuni’s mother) was collecting rainwater from our house, she asked me if she could have seeds to grow for her garden. I visited her house the following week and gave her peanut, carrot, spinach and tomato seeds. She was very happy and the next day, we planted them together. She had a small garden fenced with thistles and was already growing a type of pumpkin. After planting, we would sit together and chat. When I asked her why she wanted to plant a garden, her reply was simple, “because I have no money to buy food.” Her husband works in the “shamba” (farm or rice paddies in our village) during the rainy season. When he sells the rice, he can get money to help the family buy food and fuel. This husband is her second because Uzuni’s father had died in 2003. When I asked Mama Uzuni how her husband is, she said, “Hivyo ilivyo” (that’s how it is). She says that he could help out with the family. Mama Uzuni does not have any money or means to make money, so the garden could be very important to her. She and her family ate ugali made from maize flour and sometimes had vegetables to accompany the meal. However, she does not have money to purchase foods with higher nutrient contents such as beans, peanuts and milk. Uzuni has maybe 2 meals a day and one of the meals consists of uji (watered-down ugali). Mama Uzuni has been coughing for one month and since the last time she visited the clinic, a month ago, has not been taking any medicine. It is common in the village to contract respiratory disorders mainly due to the closed-in cooking quarters. The women would sit in a mud-made room with very little windows to cook under charcoal and wood. The smoke does not escape the kitchen very well.

Next week, I promised to come back with beans. We will plant beans together. At least if Mama Uzuni can manage her garden year-round, learn to store seeds and dry the vegetables and leaves for storage, she would have a better diet and readily available foods. I hope that more families will want to plant home gardens.

Bahatisha

From the first clinic session in the village, I have noticed Bahatisha. She has remained in the red zone (underweight zone – translates to undernutrition) on her growth chart since birth. Now, at 11 months old, she is still 3.9kg. Her skinny body makes her head large and eyes enormous. Her mother, Mama Bahatisha never misses a clinic session and yearns to help her child get healthier. A few weeks ago, the mother and daughter came to the clinic because Bahatisha had a fever. From then, I have started to visit Mama Bahatisha and Bahatisha regularly to understand their situations.

Bahatisha is only fed uji and suckles on her mother’s breast often. We talked about nutrition, about small frequent meals, about feeding positions and about complementary feeding. It was on my second visit that I knew the mother had long stopped producing milk. Therefore, without breastmilk, Bahatisha is only surviving on diluted carbohydrates. Bahatisha is her fifth child and she was successful raising her other four children, the oldest being 25 years old. When I asked her how she thinks she can help Bahatisha, she replied, “No, I don’t know.” However, after raising four children, she must have some idea. After giving her a list of advices we could do together to help Bahatisha gain weight and improve her health, she was quite determined to start. The mother was willing to do all she can to help her child. Next week, I will be visiting Bahatisha’s father and teaching them to make nutritious porridge (a mix of maize, peanut and millet flour). I pray that the mother will be motivated to follow the advices. If Bahatisha continues to have fever and diarrhea, she will soon lose the 3.9kg that she already has. Already, her body is weak and not defending well against illnesses.

HIV/AIDS

Each day, our eyes are opened to the realities of this remote village when we learn about the situations in which the villagers live in. One of the realities is the vulnerable position of this village towards the potential spread of HIV/AIDS.

In the country of Tanzania, there are approximately 1.5 million individuals living with HIV (Human Immunodeficiency Virus – the virus that causes AIDS) and therefore are future AIDS (Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome) patients. The spread of HIV is increasing in at an alarming rate in this country and most other Sub-Saharan African countries. Countries neighboring such as Zimbabwe and Malawi have more than 10% of the population living with HIV/AIDS. Governments are campaigning against AIDS, doing prevention, promotion and education about the disease, which has successfully decreased the number of new HIV cases per year. However, the main problem is that these efforts are not enough and a large majority of Africans are still unaware of the dangers of AIDS.

When we take this large-scale, worldwide epidemic and look at this topic through a magnifying glass into the villages for some clues, it is not hard to find some reasons for the fast spread of HIV. The following is an account of our village, a typical rural village in Tanzania.

AIDS is not yet a visible problem in the village of Usolanga yet. One of the reasons is due to its remoteness. A road for driving was built in 1998, but it was not until the early 2000s that a more accessible road was constructed. It was not until the opening of the one road that the villagers interacted more regularly with larger villages and towns nearby. Before the road was built, villagers used to walk to the nearest village which took at least 3 hours one-way. However, with this advancement, the spread of HIV is also made possible. As more people travel out and guests come to visit the village, it has now been reported that a few villagers are showing symptoms of AIDS.

As every village have its own characteristics depending on the population makeup, the main religion and beliefs and their traditions. Each region has a completely different story. In our village, having several sexual partners is common. One might have many wives, or even with one spouse, have many lovers. Any villager when asked about this topic of marriage or AIDS would explain that “the other villagers” all practice polygamy. The doctor explained that there is a saying in the village, “marriage always consists of 3 people”. He would comment that he would never settle for a woman from the village since he knows that she will not “just” be his wife. When asked about the reasons of multiple partners, he replied that it was the pride of men to have many partners. It may be pride, or a different concept of marriage, or tradition, but I think it is ignorance. Most villagers still considered a spouse who had lovers a heart-wrenching truth. They say it’s bad for their hearts (their emotions), but rather live not to confront this established system.

Most villagers know about condoms, but it is against their belief to use it. Another Tanzanian saying, as explained by one of the nurses about wearing protection is that it is like putting sugar in a bag, you can’t taste its sweetness.

Three times a year, the primary school sends older schoolgirls to have a check-up at the clinic and receive tetanus vaccines. The purpose mainly is to test if the girls are pregnant. Girls in the village, as young as grade 3 (10 years old) may already be sexually active. Young boys and girls have girl/boyfriends. Many mothers, when their daughters are old enough, as young as 12 or 13 years old, tell their daughters that they are now, “mature” and need to find money, food, soap and oil by themselves. She will no longer provide the necessities. The mother herself was raised in such circumstances. Girls tend to exchange sexual intercourse for necessities or money to buy them. Girls still in school have asked the nurses for contraceptives.

Usolanga is a breeding ground for HIV/AIDS, it is just a matter of a few years before it will become a crisis in the village. We can do as much as we can in this HIV/AIDS battle and take it step by step.

Seminars:

Villagers, especially women are interested in learning about HIV/AIDS. We have been approached by various villagers to hold seminars on UKIMWI (Swahili for AIDS). Sacha and I are planning information seminars on AIDS with the health officers. We are praying to use both the Anglican Church and the Roman Catholic Church as places where the seminars will be held and open to the public. Our tentative dates for the seminars are in the end of March and early April. We also intend to give the clinic and the health officers HIV/AIDS pamphlets to hand out to villagers. Our goal is to have the health officers continue to teach on this topic and hold seminars for villagers.

Girls’ Club:

Two weeks ago, we have started a “Girls Only” club at the primary school, catering to girls in grades 6 and 7. The youngest being 12 years old while the oldest in class is 16. Since it is held once a week at the school during one of the “free periods”, we have a high number of attendees. As of now, 76 girls are signed up for our class. When Sacha made the name cards, we found that there must have been 4 Veronicas and 5 Zawadis in class. We think it is important to educate girls since they are among the most vulnerable groups of people (next to children) and will become mothers who can influence their family and the society. Women, especially in the developing countries do not know the extent of their power in changing the society. One of the main reasons is their lack of knowledge and education. One other reason is the hierarchy of the family, where men are considered more superior in decision-making than women.

In the class, we teach about AIDS through the “Why Wait?” curriculum developed by the University of Malawi. It is about protecting oneself, being confident to make good choices in life and saying “NO” to unwanted pressures such as being cohered into sexual relationships. We also teach an English session, which is one of the main attractions of the class. Many girls do want to be able to study in secondary school and English would help them in entrance exams. Knowing English is also an asset for finding a job in town. There is also a session on the Bible. What does the word of God have to say about today’s lesson? When we asked the girls if they believed in God, they all raised their hands. We also have a section of fun and games. The first week, we played a name game and all the girls who participated had fun on the field where we made 2 big circles, called out names and had a bit of running. It was a beautiful Thursday afternoon and we shared it, laughing unabashedly together. Next week, we will be learning a song together in Swahili. In return, we will teach an English song. The girls are exceptional singers and their voices in unison give such a fresh and lively feeling.

Already, we have held 2 Girls’ Club classes. The first class was about how we perceived ourselves and how we think others perceive us. The girls wrote down their descriptions, such as “I am pretty” or “I am smart and practical” or “I am ugly”, and so on. When we asked the question, “This bottle of water is half-full or half empty”, the girls were asked to choose one answer. About 90% of the class chose half-full, which means that they have quite a positive view on life. When we taught and did activities, the girls wrote down everything diligently in their exercise books. They are very attentive and we did not have any problems arise in class. We did mention that the class is optional and we only want to teach students who are willing to learn. The girls however, were really interested in coming to each class. When we taught about AIDS, we enjoyed our little presentation using umbrellas to explain the immune system. Previous interns have left a good lesson on AIDS. It required using 2 umbrellas, one normal umbrella and the other with holes. We then got a student to hold one umbrella while I held the broken one. Sacha poured water on us (water represented diseases), guess who got wet? The person with the holes in the umbrella got wet, which meant that the HIV virus has damaged her immune system to make her susceptible to diseases. In the beginning of each class, we ask them a question, “Are you special?”, then the whole class replied, “I am special!”. Since the first class, we have taught them that they are special and reinforce it every class. They really are special, each one of them and we want them to know that. In our eyes, they are unique. Imagine through God’s eyes, how beautiful they really are!

Perceptions

Perception - that is probably the main reason of surprise and shock for me on my Tanzanian journey. “Be culturally sensitive” was what we were taught back in training school and all the “International Work” seminars. “Observe and understand, then immerse yourself in the culture”, the words that was repeated over and over in those sessions now are more than ever a reality. However, rather than following the steps in acculturation (definition: assimilate oneself in a culture), I find that my own perception of a Chinese girl and university graduate from Canada, and even as a Christian is being proved, disproved and as a result transformed in the everyday life and in no proper order of the way “things should go”. I find myself wondering, sometimes in jaw-dropping amazement of what I have learned and understood.

Appearances:

The definition of physical appearance in Tanzania is almost the opposite of the western one. Here, the more colors, designs and motifs you wear, the higher you are on the fashion board. The bright and shinny tops and skirts, the purple, green or multicolored suits are all among the latest of fashions. Since second-hand markets are teeming with monotone shirts and pants from North America, Europe and Asia, why wouldn’t anyone think that their new clothes made from local fabrics are higher end? I have been refined in my tastes and find the wild colors attractive and cheerful.

Apart from clothes, the physical size and height of a person determines their strengths and weaknesses. As Sacha and I partner together in the village, we are mostly inseparable when we go out for our rounds. Sacha, a tall 6ft. (180cm) Canadian girl is paired with her short Chinese sidekick of 5ft. 3in. (158cm). Although I am average height or even taller than the average Tanzanian woman in the village, however, beside Sacha, the contrast is great. Even I would laugh at our dynamic duo. Because of our differences, some villagers would ask if Sacha was my mother and I was her child. I suppose when I can grow taller, I’ll mature in age too. Another day, some friends were worried that I could not endure the hard work in the field because I am small and shouldn’t have any energy. They were also worried that I could not live in the village by myself and this is due to my height. Gladly, I demystified them by working well in the field and stayed in the village alone while Sacha was away. Apart from height, contrary to western beliefs, large behinds are considered extra-charming here. A big “wowowo” could turn young man’s heads any day. Mama Flora explained, “Women look nice with a big wowowo and you can shake and dance!” A taboo in Tanzania is to show one’s knees, especially women’s knees in public. A woman who exposes her knees is considered one of a bad reputation or profession. The breasts, however are considered nothing more than a lump of fat that produces milk for the baby. Womanhood, in Tanzania of any size and shape is celebrated and that is a rare concept in many parts of the world.

Love, Hate and Politeness:

Tanzania, and especially the Swahili language is one full of courtesies. The beautiful people of Tanzania are among one of the most polite people I have met. When meeting someone, even a stranger, you always greet them and ask them how every aspect of their lives are, from work to family to activities to weather. Always, the reply is “nzuri” (good), “salama” (safe or peaceful) or “safi” (clean). When meeting an older person, the younger one would greet with “Shikamoo” (literally means “I want to hold your feet”) and the reply is “Marahaba” (I am delighted).

Whenever I pass by any house, I am welcomed with Karibu (welcome) to have chai (tea) and ugali (stiff maize porridge – the main staple in Tanzania). There is not one time when I visited a friend or villager (even strangers) during lunch or dinner time that I am not asked to join the family for chakula (food). There is always enough, even when there is nothing left to offer. Whenever a guest passed by the house, the host or hostess would always stop work and attend to the guest. There is always a lot of “asante” (thank you) that goes back and forth. When there is no more to say, you say, “asante”. By the end of a visit, we would have thanked the host more than 5 or 6 times (sometimes even more), thanked God and gotten thanked for coming. Our friend, Ellie who taught at the Kilolo secondary school enjoyed the politeness of the students. The students called her “madam” or “miss” and always offered to carry her workbag, groceries or water buckets for her. Being a teacher is an honorable profession in Tanzania.

I have experienced that love and hate is rarely expressed in a straightforward way. In the village, lovers do not hold hands and would never show public affection. However, men holding hands with men or women with women are common sights, an expression of friendship. When people fight or are angry at each other, there are many ways that they could convey their feelings. Apart from the confrontational quarrels and fights, one could just buy a kanga (local cloth that has a proverb printed) with a bad proverb such as “I hate you”, or “You cry always” and wear it just to show their adversary. You could dedicate a song and message for someone on the radio expressing angry feelings or buy “I Hate You” cards from the store which comes with a picture of flowers and is decorated with hearts. The message, however, is not as lovey-dovey as the picture. The bookstore owner explained to me that “I Hate You” cards are, “ good cards to give because how would someone know that they have offended you if you didn’t give them a card?” (they are usually sold-out). Then again, there are also the “I am sorry” cards and “I forgive you” cards. It is a great idea! Why waste your worries and words when you could send a card that conveys precisely what you are feeling and is more refined and poetic.

Being Chinese:

For the most part, I am known as a mzungu (white person) because compared to most Tanzanians, I have white skin. I do sometimes get into a long discussion about why my skin color is yellow and a bit darker than white, therefore, not white. For those who understand the difference in skin colors and facial features, they call me, “Mchina! Mchina!” (Chinese! Chinese!).

The Chinese people are not as foreign to Tanzanians as other nationalities. During Tanzania’s socialist days, in the 60s, communist China was a brother to the nation. The Chinese government sent hundreds of Chinese workers to Tanzania to build the first railroad, the Tazara Railway. It runs from Tanzania to Zambia and is still in use. However, a ride to Zambia took 2 whole days on the train and only 24 hours on the bus. During the 80s and 90s, there were many Chinese that sought Tanzania as a land of good venture. Chinese doctors opened Chinese clinics and used Chinese Medicine to treat patients. Others built shoe-making factories, restaurants, garages and nowadays internet cafes, and so on. Everywhere around the world, the Chinese people work hard to strive in everyway possible for a better life. It is the Chinese motto to endure hard work and its bitterness. Many Tanzanians commented to me that they liked the Chinese people because they are hard workers and smart.

On the opposite side, due to the spread of mass media and the craze over oriental martial arts in Africa, I am automatically associated with kung-fu. The only Asians they see on TV are Bruce Lee, Jackie Chan and Jet Li, all masters of the art. In the market when people see me coming, they often signal to me by using their own kung-fu moves. Because I am Chinese, I should know kung-fu. Sometimes I jokingly admit that I am actually Jackie Chan’s sister. Most people believe me right away, yet I of course tell them the truth in the next instant that neither am I related to Jackie Chan (maybe I am by some far ancestry) or know kung-fu. Sacha, however, knows Hapkido (a Korean martial art) and self-defense. She can single-handedly chop three pieces of wood boards. When she showed her kicks and moves to a friend in the village, she immediately became famous. A rumour was spread within young people that Sacha beat up a fundi (a carpenter working in the clinic) and made him cry. As rumours go, it was not true, but we do feel happy that no young man wants to bother those two “white girls” who lives behind the clinic.

Masai:

The Masai people continue to amaze me. This tribe is especially famous for their tribal rituals, colorful “Shukas” (cloth worn by the Masai people) and their nomadic behaviors. As herders, the Masai usually travel long distances to find good grazing lands for their cows and goats. They are good walkers and usually have a lean body with very little fat but all skin and bones, but are tall with long necks. The Masais are famous throughout the land for their fearlessness to wild creatures and ability to bring down a lion if needed to.

Being a prideful tribe, proud of their way of life, they adorn themselves with beaded necklaces, earrings, anklets, walking sticks and sturdy walking sandals (the sandals are bought from the Swahili people from the coast). Traditional rituals include the special “jumping” contest between the men. As the men chants, they each jump as high as they can to show their manhood. The highest jumper is considered the strongest and a good potential as a husband for the ladies. As the boys reach manhood, they are expected to leave their village and wander in the land, finding their own paths in life. This is a coming-to-age ritual. Although traditions in the Masai villages didn’t change much, the times are changing. Masais now are usually equipped with a bicycle (a luxury in the village), a cell phone and plenty of cash. The Masais are rich people since the herds are worth high values. It is like owning stocks, until you sell them they are only virtual assets. The Masais do not like to sell their cattle. They like their way of life and only sell a cow when they need emergency cash. A cow is around $300 or 300,000 shillings. Considering that the average wage of a storekeeper is 45,000 shillings per month, the Masai people are very rich. However, in a material world where money is as important as water, the Masais don’t seem to care about it. Happiness could not be bought and nothing in the world could make them happier than living the life they have inherited from their ancestors.

Nowadays, the Masai tribe has become a large commercial business. They are featured in paintings, woodcarvings that are sold in every tourist attraction. The Masai people travel to touristy places like Arusha (near Mt. Kilimanjaro) or Zanzibar to sell their beadworks and necklaces. However, they no longer make their beads over fire like the olden days. The beads that they use now are imported from Croatia. It is easier to buy imported beads than to make their own. A lot of them also found jobs as guards due to their ability to fight the wild. Our clinic night-guard is a Masai man. Those who are born in families where education is valued go on to secondary school and even university. However, education is not a priority for most of the Masai people I meet.

In Kenya, the Masai tribe is on the verge of extinction. It is due to the government reducing usable grazing lands for the Masai people. In Tanzania, the Masai people have no obstacles in finding grass fields for their cows and as a result, there are plenty of Masais roaming the land. I believe that it is their pride in their culture that sustained their traditions and ways of living. Other tribes may retain some customs, but as one observes, they are quickly being assimilated into the mainstream culture, losing its original charm and flavor. The Masais hold their head high and stride in their long legs as princes of the land. It is a rare confidence that most people have lost or have never known.