Perceptions

Perception - that is probably the main reason of surprise and shock for me on my Tanzanian journey. “Be culturally sensitive” was what we were taught back in training school and all the “International Work” seminars. “Observe and understand, then immerse yourself in the culture”, the words that was repeated over and over in those sessions now are more than ever a reality. However, rather than following the steps in acculturation (definition: assimilate oneself in a culture), I find that my own perception of a Chinese girl and university graduate from Canada, and even as a Christian is being proved, disproved and as a result transformed in the everyday life and in no proper order of the way “things should go”. I find myself wondering, sometimes in jaw-dropping amazement of what I have learned and understood.

Appearances:

The definition of physical appearance in Tanzania is almost the opposite of the western one. Here, the more colors, designs and motifs you wear, the higher you are on the fashion board. The bright and shinny tops and skirts, the purple, green or multicolored suits are all among the latest of fashions. Since second-hand markets are teeming with monotone shirts and pants from North America, Europe and Asia, why wouldn’t anyone think that their new clothes made from local fabrics are higher end? I have been refined in my tastes and find the wild colors attractive and cheerful.

Apart from clothes, the physical size and height of a person determines their strengths and weaknesses. As Sacha and I partner together in the village, we are mostly inseparable when we go out for our rounds. Sacha, a tall 6ft. (180cm) Canadian girl is paired with her short Chinese sidekick of 5ft. 3in. (158cm). Although I am average height or even taller than the average Tanzanian woman in the village, however, beside Sacha, the contrast is great. Even I would laugh at our dynamic duo. Because of our differences, some villagers would ask if Sacha was my mother and I was her child. I suppose when I can grow taller, I’ll mature in age too. Another day, some friends were worried that I could not endure the hard work in the field because I am small and shouldn’t have any energy. They were also worried that I could not live in the village by myself and this is due to my height. Gladly, I demystified them by working well in the field and stayed in the village alone while Sacha was away. Apart from height, contrary to western beliefs, large behinds are considered extra-charming here. A big “wowowo” could turn young man’s heads any day. Mama Flora explained, “Women look nice with a big wowowo and you can shake and dance!” A taboo in Tanzania is to show one’s knees, especially women’s knees in public. A woman who exposes her knees is considered one of a bad reputation or profession. The breasts, however are considered nothing more than a lump of fat that produces milk for the baby. Womanhood, in Tanzania of any size and shape is celebrated and that is a rare concept in many parts of the world.

Love, Hate and Politeness:

Tanzania, and especially the Swahili language is one full of courtesies. The beautiful people of Tanzania are among one of the most polite people I have met. When meeting someone, even a stranger, you always greet them and ask them how every aspect of their lives are, from work to family to activities to weather. Always, the reply is “nzuri” (good), “salama” (safe or peaceful) or “safi” (clean). When meeting an older person, the younger one would greet with “Shikamoo” (literally means “I want to hold your feet”) and the reply is “Marahaba” (I am delighted).

Whenever I pass by any house, I am welcomed with Karibu (welcome) to have chai (tea) and ugali (stiff maize porridge – the main staple in Tanzania). There is not one time when I visited a friend or villager (even strangers) during lunch or dinner time that I am not asked to join the family for chakula (food). There is always enough, even when there is nothing left to offer. Whenever a guest passed by the house, the host or hostess would always stop work and attend to the guest. There is always a lot of “asante” (thank you) that goes back and forth. When there is no more to say, you say, “asante”. By the end of a visit, we would have thanked the host more than 5 or 6 times (sometimes even more), thanked God and gotten thanked for coming. Our friend, Ellie who taught at the Kilolo secondary school enjoyed the politeness of the students. The students called her “madam” or “miss” and always offered to carry her workbag, groceries or water buckets for her. Being a teacher is an honorable profession in Tanzania.

I have experienced that love and hate is rarely expressed in a straightforward way. In the village, lovers do not hold hands and would never show public affection. However, men holding hands with men or women with women are common sights, an expression of friendship. When people fight or are angry at each other, there are many ways that they could convey their feelings. Apart from the confrontational quarrels and fights, one could just buy a kanga (local cloth that has a proverb printed) with a bad proverb such as “I hate you”, or “You cry always” and wear it just to show their adversary. You could dedicate a song and message for someone on the radio expressing angry feelings or buy “I Hate You” cards from the store which comes with a picture of flowers and is decorated with hearts. The message, however, is not as lovey-dovey as the picture. The bookstore owner explained to me that “I Hate You” cards are, “ good cards to give because how would someone know that they have offended you if you didn’t give them a card?” (they are usually sold-out). Then again, there are also the “I am sorry” cards and “I forgive you” cards. It is a great idea! Why waste your worries and words when you could send a card that conveys precisely what you are feeling and is more refined and poetic.

Being Chinese:

For the most part, I am known as a mzungu (white person) because compared to most Tanzanians, I have white skin. I do sometimes get into a long discussion about why my skin color is yellow and a bit darker than white, therefore, not white. For those who understand the difference in skin colors and facial features, they call me, “Mchina! Mchina!” (Chinese! Chinese!).

The Chinese people are not as foreign to Tanzanians as other nationalities. During Tanzania’s socialist days, in the 60s, communist China was a brother to the nation. The Chinese government sent hundreds of Chinese workers to Tanzania to build the first railroad, the Tazara Railway. It runs from Tanzania to Zambia and is still in use. However, a ride to Zambia took 2 whole days on the train and only 24 hours on the bus. During the 80s and 90s, there were many Chinese that sought Tanzania as a land of good venture. Chinese doctors opened Chinese clinics and used Chinese Medicine to treat patients. Others built shoe-making factories, restaurants, garages and nowadays internet cafes, and so on. Everywhere around the world, the Chinese people work hard to strive in everyway possible for a better life. It is the Chinese motto to endure hard work and its bitterness. Many Tanzanians commented to me that they liked the Chinese people because they are hard workers and smart.

On the opposite side, due to the spread of mass media and the craze over oriental martial arts in Africa, I am automatically associated with kung-fu. The only Asians they see on TV are Bruce Lee, Jackie Chan and Jet Li, all masters of the art. In the market when people see me coming, they often signal to me by using their own kung-fu moves. Because I am Chinese, I should know kung-fu. Sometimes I jokingly admit that I am actually Jackie Chan’s sister. Most people believe me right away, yet I of course tell them the truth in the next instant that neither am I related to Jackie Chan (maybe I am by some far ancestry) or know kung-fu. Sacha, however, knows Hapkido (a Korean martial art) and self-defense. She can single-handedly chop three pieces of wood boards. When she showed her kicks and moves to a friend in the village, she immediately became famous. A rumour was spread within young people that Sacha beat up a fundi (a carpenter working in the clinic) and made him cry. As rumours go, it was not true, but we do feel happy that no young man wants to bother those two “white girls” who lives behind the clinic.

Masai:

The Masai people continue to amaze me. This tribe is especially famous for their tribal rituals, colorful “Shukas” (cloth worn by the Masai people) and their nomadic behaviors. As herders, the Masai usually travel long distances to find good grazing lands for their cows and goats. They are good walkers and usually have a lean body with very little fat but all skin and bones, but are tall with long necks. The Masais are famous throughout the land for their fearlessness to wild creatures and ability to bring down a lion if needed to.

Being a prideful tribe, proud of their way of life, they adorn themselves with beaded necklaces, earrings, anklets, walking sticks and sturdy walking sandals (the sandals are bought from the Swahili people from the coast). Traditional rituals include the special “jumping” contest between the men. As the men chants, they each jump as high as they can to show their manhood. The highest jumper is considered the strongest and a good potential as a husband for the ladies. As the boys reach manhood, they are expected to leave their village and wander in the land, finding their own paths in life. This is a coming-to-age ritual. Although traditions in the Masai villages didn’t change much, the times are changing. Masais now are usually equipped with a bicycle (a luxury in the village), a cell phone and plenty of cash. The Masais are rich people since the herds are worth high values. It is like owning stocks, until you sell them they are only virtual assets. The Masais do not like to sell their cattle. They like their way of life and only sell a cow when they need emergency cash. A cow is around $300 or 300,000 shillings. Considering that the average wage of a storekeeper is 45,000 shillings per month, the Masai people are very rich. However, in a material world where money is as important as water, the Masais don’t seem to care about it. Happiness could not be bought and nothing in the world could make them happier than living the life they have inherited from their ancestors.

Nowadays, the Masai tribe has become a large commercial business. They are featured in paintings, woodcarvings that are sold in every tourist attraction. The Masai people travel to touristy places like Arusha (near Mt. Kilimanjaro) or Zanzibar to sell their beadworks and necklaces. However, they no longer make their beads over fire like the olden days. The beads that they use now are imported from Croatia. It is easier to buy imported beads than to make their own. A lot of them also found jobs as guards due to their ability to fight the wild. Our clinic night-guard is a Masai man. Those who are born in families where education is valued go on to secondary school and even university. However, education is not a priority for most of the Masai people I meet.

In Kenya, the Masai tribe is on the verge of extinction. It is due to the government reducing usable grazing lands for the Masai people. In Tanzania, the Masai people have no obstacles in finding grass fields for their cows and as a result, there are plenty of Masais roaming the land. I believe that it is their pride in their culture that sustained their traditions and ways of living. Other tribes may retain some customs, but as one observes, they are quickly being assimilated into the mainstream culture, losing its original charm and flavor. The Masais hold their head high and stride in their long legs as princes of the land. It is a rare confidence that most people have lost or have never known.